November 30th, 2008
Breeding tropical fish can be a lot of fun. Try your luck at breeding livebearers such as guppies or swordtails.
Equipment Needed:
Breeder Box or Breeder Net
Breeding Grass
5 or 10 gallon tank for the baby fish or a tank divider that you can use for your main tank.
A pair - 1 female and 1 male
Two of the more popular tropical fish for beginners has to be Guppies and Swordtails. Guppies and Swordtails are livebearers which means that their babies come out swimming. Like most livebearers, there is not much to getting your guppies or swordtails to breed. If you have a male and a female then you will eventually have a pregnant female. The gestation period for livebearers is usually 28 days but can range from 20 to 40 days.
Place the male and female in the same tank together and they will soon mate. You are probably asking, how can I tell when the female is pregnant? When a female guppy is pregnant she will develop a dark triangular shaped gravid spot near her anal vent. This will get larger and darker as the pregnancy progresses. While you are waiting on the female to develop the babies it’s time to make sure you are prepared for the delivery. We use plastic breeder boxes and always have without any problems. A breeder box is a small box plastic box about 4 inches long by 3 inches wide and 4 inches deep. There is a removable “V” shaped trap in it which serves to separate the mother from the babies. When the mother fish has babies they fall through the slot in the “V” into the bottom of the box. After the mother is finished having babies, you can remove the “V” trap and the mother so that they babies have more room to grow. Some people have had bad experiences with breeder boxes and now only use a breeder net. It is also a good idea to purchase some real or plastic breeding grass for the top of the aquarium. The breeding grass is just in case the mother gives birth before you have a chance to put her in the breeder box. The young babies instinctively will swim to the top of the aquarium and the breeder grass provides a great hiding place so they won’t get eaten by the bigger fish in your tank.
To feed your new arrivals you can use finely crushed flake food. Using your fingers, you can rub the flakes into a fine powder. Some only feed live foods such as baby brine shrimp. Live foods would definitely be the best way to go, but for most this is simply not feasible. Crushed or powdered flake food will suffice. Try to feed the babies 3 very small meals per day. You will invariably feed too much and the excess food will drop to the bottom of the tank or breeder box. To clean a breeder box we like to take a 3 ft. length of aquarium tubing and a small bucket. Use the tubing as a siphon to clean the bottom of the breeder box. Be careful not to siphon any baby fish.
Try to perform 25% water changes weekly for your baby guppies. This will aid in the optimal growth of your baby tropical fish. After a few weeks in the breeder box your new babies will soon outgrow their home and you will need to move them either to a new tank or your main tank with a divider installed. By 8 weeks old your baby fish will most likely be able to return to the main tank without a divider.
About the Author: Mike is an editor at FishLore.com.
Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more!
http://www.FishLore.com
Source: www.isnare.com
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November 30th, 2008
Breeding Tetras
If you are keeping tetras, chances are you are breeding tetras, even if unknowingly. In the wild, tetras normally breed during the rainy season, but in the aquarium, they may breed year round. Female tetras are egg-scatters that typically fill with eggs every ten to fourteen days.
The female tetra indiscriminately sprays her eggs into clumps of fine-leaved plants. The eggs are adhesive and stick to the plants. However, tetras as well as other tank mates often find tetra eggs and small fry an irresistible delicacy.
If breeding tetras is your goal in keeping them, the best thing to do is to separate males and females. This allows you to keep control of breeding and improves your chance of achieving a successful hatch of fry. Smaller species of female tetras become sexually active at nine to twelve months old with larger species ready to breed at 1 to 2 years of age.
Male tetras are generally a month or two older than females for successful spawning to take place.
Males are typically slimmer and more colorful than their female companions are. When viewed from above, the female tetra is distinguishably plumper and rounder because of the build-up of eggs within her body.
Two weeks before breeding tetras, separate males and females within the same tank. This is done simply by putting a clear divider between them, which not only gives you control of breeding but also stimulates spawning behavior since the fish are kept within sight of each other. Breeding tetras is also encouraged during the pre-spawn period by feeding them with high-quality live foods.
When ready to breed tetras, you’ll get the best results by using a separate breeding tank, prepared with a peat filter and clean, aged water in which clumps of fine-leaved plants have been strategically placed. Three ways to complete your tank for breeding tetras are:
- Drape the tank with nylon netting to allow the eggs to fall to the tank floor away from hungry adults.
- Cover the tank floor with marbles to hide the eggs and protect them from cannibalism.
- Plant fine-leaved plants or artificial spawning mops in seed trays filled with coarse gravel to trap the eggs and prevent them from being eaten.
Females should be placed in the breeding tank earlier than the males, usually the night before breeding. In addition to allowing her to settle in, it also puts the male in the position of having to court her on her own turf. This technique can deter any aggressive tendencies he may display. After introducing the male to the breeding tank, it’s best to watch his introductory moves.
Males often show aggressive behavior during spawning. If the male attacks a female, remove her and re-separate the pair. Another female can be tried or alternatively, two to three females can be introduced to the breeding tank to keep the male from focusing his attention on only one. Remove adult fish from the breeding tank immediately after breeding tetras.
If you are interested in Tetra Fish, on our site we have a free e-book available about these wonderful creatures.
About the Author
Linda is author of
Tetra Fish and Cichilds at
aquarium-guides.com
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November 28th, 2008
The numbers will make any pet lover blanch with disgust, anger, and sadness. The Humane Society of the United States calculates that as many as 500,000 puppies every year are sold in pet shops, and that many of these pet shops buy their pets from the worst breedersso-called puppy mills. What do these puppy mills (and kitty mills) have to do with you if you’re on the market for a new furry companion? You know what you’re doing when it comes to buying a purebred, right?
Truth be told, puppy mills are largely responsible for even harsher statistic: as many as 25 percent of all purebred pups suffer from genetic difficulties because of bad breeding. And as knowledgeable as you think you are about buying a dog, you could come across one of these poor pups and not even know it.
That could mean that you spent hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars on a pet, only to have it succumb to a birth defect and maybe even die at an early age. Even if this worst-case scenario doesn’t occur, buying from the wrong breeder can also land you an animal that picked up diseases because of the intolerable conditions at the breeder. That could lead to additional thousands spent on vet bills.
Why leash yourself to such heartache? There’s no need when there are so many great and trustworthy breeders out there, who can pair you with a loving new puppy.
To find the right breeder for you, start local. Your best bet is to find breeders within driving distance. That way, you can visit the actual breeding facilities. And while there, be sure to scout out for the following characteristics that all best-of-show breeders possess:
•A litter of dogs that play, smile, and show all the other signs of being happy and healthy. Take notice, too, that the pups are sociable to the breeder, you, and their brothers and sisters.
•More demand for their dogs than they can handle. Usually a long buyers’ waiting list at a breeder is like a wagging tail on a puppya good sign.
•A discerning eye for customers. Good breeders should ask you as many questions as you ask them, on topics such as your reasons for wanting their dog, your past pet experience, whether you have enough space at home, and who in your family will be responsible for daily puppy care.
•The willingness to show you the puppy’s parents during your visit if you provide the right answers to the above questions.
•A wealth of knowledge on the dogs that they breed, including specific advice on the breed’s standard and temperament, to satisfy all of your questions and concerns.
•A health guarantee in writing that shows exactly what vaccinations the pup has had.
•The friendly advice about what future vaccinations you should give, along with the best ways to train and care for the puppy.
•A guarantee, again in writing, this one stating that the breeder would be willing to take back the dog if you cannot keep it at any time.
•The care and thoughtfulness to keep in touch for some time after your purchase, to check on the dog and offer further advice when needed.
If you keep your eyes peeled and your ears perked for these signs of a good breeder, you won’t have to rely on luck or a good reference in finding the right puppy (though those don’t hurt either). You’ll learn soon after you bring your new pal home that you made the right choice, and over time, your family and pet bond. Your pet will live a long, healthy life as part of your family.
About the Author
Donald Lee is the public relations manager for Buysellcommunity.com. Buysellcommunity provides free classified listing services. Buy, Sell and trade: auto, computers, household items, real estate, pets and much more. For national and localized classifieds, please visit
http://www.buysellcommunity.com
Free Buy & Sell Classifieds
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November 26th, 2008
Dear Adam:
After catching up on doggy email, I’ve noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn’t any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn’t like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog’s face, body, etc.?
Thanks,
Mark.
Dear Mark:
It’s a tough situation you’ve got. You’ve really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:
1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.
2. Body language. The dog’s body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It’s very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.
There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues… it’s just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.
To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!
About the Author
Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
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November 26th, 2008
Packing to go on yet another business trip? Does your family live at the other end of the country - or globe - and you need to fly there often? Do your vacation plans always include a flight to that special resort where you spend a lovely honeymoon? If so, then you probably have asked yourself if there’s any possibility to save some money and somehow benefit from so many flights taken. You shouldn’t be surprised to find out that many credit card companies already offer tools for a traveler to save money, earn airline miles and use other facilities for free or at discounted prices. Some of the intelligent tools for travelers are the airline mileage credit cards, a great option both for business and leisure travelers.As it happens with all products and services on the market, some cards are better than others, so make sure to do your homework before applying. The general rule, however, is to avoid carrying a balance on these cards as this can increase the costs related to the interest. In many cases, your company would require you to use a certain carrier, so it’s wise to figure out if that particular carrier also serves the destinations you usually visit during your vacations. A large majority of the cards can be used with several carriers. And remember that many cards also offer plenty other facilities, such as travel insurance, the possibility to redeem the miles for cash or gifts, cheaper hotel rooms or a free companion ticket. You can also use the miles earned to save money when booking your vacation. To really benefit from the discounts offered by such cards, you can pair them with a travel deal and you’d be surprised to find that you can afford a luxury vacation you never thought was possible.
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November 26th, 2008
Breeding fish can be quite complicated, but these basics for breeding your Betta fish should help ease you into the process. The more experience you have with breeding your Betta the easier and less complicated it will all seem. Witnessing nature as it takes its course can be fun, exciting, and a true educational experience for people of all ages. Seeing the offspring of your beloved Betta spring into action invokes a sense of pride and satisfaction all its own!
Your Betta should be at least five months old and in good health before you attempt to breed. If you attempt breeding with Betta’s that are less than five months old or in poor health you’ll end up frustrated, and your Betta will, too!
If you just bought your Betta from a pet store or had it shipped through the mail, you may need to wait a couple of weeks before attempting to breed. Pet store conditions are usually less than ideal and being mailed is, of course, very stressful and your fish will need some time to get acclimated.
Before you attempt to breed you need to do some conditioning. The water must be clear and as clean as you can possibly get it. You should increase feedings to four times a day and feed as much protein as possible, preferably live bait such as bloodworms.
At least a week before you attempt to breed your Betta you should place them in two separate containers where they can view each other. Allowing them to see one another will usually keep them from being aggressive when you put them in a spawning tank together.
Once you expose the two fish to one another the male may start forming a bubble net at the top of his bowl, this is normal behavior. The female will often get stripes on her body and you will know she is ready to breed when she begins to swim as if dancing on her nose; following the males’ every move. Her belly will be obviously filled with eggs. These are signs that she is ready and willing to breed.
Set up the tank two or three days before you are ready to begin the spawning phase of breeding. You’ll want to keep the spawning tank away from all sources of heat or air conditioning, and it should be on a stable surface. Add three to six inches of aged water to the tank.
Place your submersible heater into the water. Remember, most heaters of this type have to be submerged for a while before turning on the unit, at least twenty minutes. When you turn the heater on set it to about 80-82 degrees. Also add a thermometer, plants, a rock to hide behind, and half a Styrofoam cup for the male to build his nest under.
You’ll want to place the chimney in the center of the tank for the female. The chimney is a great place to let the two fish get acquainted before the actual spawning begins.
Place the male in the spawning tank a day ahead of the female. Let him get acclimated to the water. When he seems comfortable, it’s safe to add the female to the chimney. Leaving a light on will stimulate a hormone that will encourages spawning activity.
When you first release the female she may hide from the male. But, most likely they will swim toward one another and try to find the right position by swimming in circles around one another. It may take them a couple of tries to get it just right. As the male squeezes the female she’ll probably release about thirty eggs. After she expels these eggs both the fish may stop moving, and that is normal. Once they start moving again the male will start blowing the eggs up into the bubble nest; most females help with this process, too. The spawning process can last many hours and they will continue this cycle until she has released all her eggs.
Once the eggs have all been released the female can be removed from the tank. The male will continue to care for their bubble nest and eggs until they hatch in about 24-48 hours. Once the fry are all free and swimming the male must be removed or he may eat them.
Remember that you should be offering food to the Betta’s throughout the spawning process.
There! You’ve done it! You’ve just bred your first Betta fish! All of the fry may not survive but as long as temperatures are kept just right you’ll end up with more than a handful for which to care.
About the Author
Amanda Fenton is a Betta fish lover and contributing writer to http://www.bettafishcenter.com, a site providing information and tips on betta fish care.
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November 26th, 2008
Be hopeful today to check out if you have a great deal or if you don’t with the bank that offers you a credit loan. Examine to see if the merchant bank who is willing to give you a bank loan is proficient. 12.6 percent interest rate may come along so ok but will that be ceaseless after you have to give back your deferred payment. This is why now you really need to check into and run into if you can have a loan at a beneficial percent loan rate. Nowadays you can check up on rates quickly on the internet and foresee if there are possible traps you should be aware of.
Translated in Dutch: Woon je in Groningen of Wormerland en heeft u BKR verleden. Lenen met zonder BKR registratie is nog nooit zo eenvoudig geweest. Koop een andere woning met lenen van geld zonder bkr, 440239 euro is geen obstakel om te financieren. Van Barneveld tot Emmen, financieren met zonder BKR registratie kan hier altijd.
Many of the merchant banks wil show you a rate of interest that is looking serious but doesn’t feel considerably or so after some time. A moneylender in Camden New Jersey or so can have a total totally different actual interest rate for a 7500 dollar money loan then a bank in Brooklyn Park Minnesota and that makes a immense clear difference in your yearly costs. It doesn’t matter if you live in Muskogee Oklahoma or in Lincoln Nebraska a honest online investigation will preserve you often lots of disoblige.
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November 23rd, 2008
The real apistogramma’s come from southern America, they all have the same characteristics, like a complex breeding behavior, as their large relatives, only their size is different. Besides the apistogramma group there are also some relatively popular dwarf cichlids from Africa, like the Pelvicachromis group. From this group the most widespread cichlid is the Pelvicachromis pulcher, also known as the Kribensis or Purple cichlid.
Generally the cichlids from the apistogramma group are more fragile and harder to maintain, and breed, for a longer period of time. In my opinion apistogramma’s are not real beginner species. They are more likely to get diseases if not all the environmental variables are properly taken care of. They need soft and acidic water with a low PH value, a PH of 5.5 to 6 is preferable. They hardly eat dry foods, best is to feed them live foods or frozen food, like bloodworms, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae. Apistogramma species can be kept in a large tropical community aquarium, but be sure the other fish are not too small, they can defend their territory very fiercely, and can be quite aggressive when they are breeding. In my opinion it is best to keep the apistogramma’s on their own, in a larger aquarium you could combine two apistogramma variants together, maybe supplemented with a small group of other fish, like some livebearers or betta’s. They also can be kept together with discus or angel fish. I always have a harem of apisto’s in my discus tanks, just to populate the lower areas of the aquarium and I really like these small dwarfs with a big attitude.
The cichlids from the Pelvicachromis group are much more tolerant when it comes to water values and feeding, I do consider these cichlids a good beginner species. They are hardened, beautiful colored and eat almost anything. The Pelvicachromis pulcher is maybe one of the most easy to breed cichlids as well. If you have an adult couple they will reproduce, in a community tank, a special species tank or in a pond, some people like to breed them in their pond during summer. Actually some of the biggest and nicest colored Pelvicachromis pulcher were pond bred and raised. The only thing to keep in mind with these cichlids is that they are capable of redesigning your aquarium, they can make huge holes and are real little bulldozers. So if you have, or want to setup, a subtile planted tank, don’t add a couple of Pelvicachromis to your aquarium.
The last dwarf cichlid I want to mention is the Microgeophagus ramirezi, or Ram cichlid. Their behavior and care are roughly the same as the apistogramma’s but they are more tolerant when it comes to water values, and in my experience they are easier to keep in good condition. Unlike the apistos they have to be kept as a couple, not a harem but that’s the only breeding experience I have. I have tried several couples, have a couple in a breeding tank right now, but I have never even had a clutch of eggs. I know from other breeders that they are kind of hard to get going, but if they do they never stop.
About The Author
Auke Veenstra is keeping and breeding tropical aquarium fish, and dendrobatea, for years. He shares his experiences on the TinkerFish website. This article can be used for free on-line, if the origin of the article is mentioned and an active link to http://www.tinkerfish.com is provided.
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November 23rd, 2008
Key Facts:
Size: Large
Height: 53 - 64 cm (21 - 25 inches)
Weight: 30 - 34 kg (65 - 75 lb)
Life Span: 12 years
Grooming: Minimal
Exercise: Demanding
Feeding: Demanding
Temperament: Active & eager
Country of Origin: United States
AKC Group: Hound
Temperament:
The American Foxhound is affectionate, eager, active, energetic and brave. American Foxhounds generally get along well with children and other dogs but are likely to chase any non-canine pets with their natural hunting instincts. American Foxhounds vary widely with how they treat strangers, some are overly protective while others happily greet all visitors. It is important to remember that this breed is a natural pack-hunting hound and is not always an ideal family companion. American Foxhounds tend to be difficult to house train and are most suited for active families or those who enjoy hunting.
Grooming:
Grooming is simple and easy with this short-coated breed. American Foxhounds are average shedders and should be brushed and combed occasionally to keep the coat in good condition.
Exercise:
The American Foxhound needs a substantial amount of daily exercise. If this breeds exercise needs are not met then they can become restless and destructive. American Foxhounds should be kept on a lead when out walking as they are likely to run off if they pick up an interesting scent. They tend to be reasonably active indoors and are not suited for urban living. Ideally American Foxhounds would have the opportunity to hunt or track with their owner.
History:
The Foxhound evolved from English hounds that were brought to America in 1650. The cross-breeding of the English and French Hounds helped produce today’s lean and fast American Foxhound. These dogs have an excellent nose and worked as efficient and untiring hunters of wild animals. The American Foxhound is still primarily a hunting and field trial dog (in packs and alone), though they have had some success as a companion dog. Its talents are hunting, tracking, watchdogging and agility.
Physical Characteristics:
General Appearance: Alert, agile and lean.
Colour: All colours are accepted.
Coat: Close, hard and of medium length.
Tail: Set moderately high and is carried gaily with a slight curve (should not be forward over the back).
Ears: Set low, hanging close to the cheek and fairly broad at the base with rounded tips.
Body: The back is moderately long and muscular and the broad loins are slightly arched. The chest is deep and narrow and the well sprung ribs extend well back. The shoulders are muscular and sloping.
Additional Comments:
The American Foxhound is taller and lighter boned than the English Foxhound.
The American Foxhound was not bred to be a family companion, but if they are well socialized during puppyhood they can adapt to family life.
About the Author
This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/american_foxhound/
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November 21st, 2008
presented by David the Dogman
As an ardent reader of the Collins Dog Photoguide I came across this article, which I feel, might be of interest to readers.
Traffic Accidents
A traffic accident is probably the most common cause of serious injury to a cat or dog. Always approach the animal with caution, it may react aggressively because of the pain.
Move the dog as little as possible, but if you must move it, it is probably best to use a blanket, sliding it underneath the dog. Seek the assistance of another person and lift the dog gently to safety. Check for heartbeat and any haemorrhaging. Attempt to stem excessive bleeding by holding a clean pad or clean handkerchief over the wound, binding it tightly with a makeshift bandage. Call the nearest vet’s surgery to warn of your arrival.
Burns
The only recommended first aid is to clean off the offending substance and immerse the body part under cold running water for as long as possible. Seek professional advice immediately.
Heat Stroke
This occurs most commonly when a dog has been left alone on a hot day without ventilation. If your dog has not already collapsed it may be panting, vomiting or frothing at the mouth.
Remove froth and lower the dog’s temperature as soon as possible by placing or dousing the animal in cold water. Take the dog to the vet immediately where it will be treated with drugs and more cold water.
Poisoning
Signs of poisoning may include collapse, muscular twitching, vomiting, bleeding or convulsion. Do not hesitate to contact the vet. Take some of the noxious substance to the vet with you if you know what it is. If the dog has recently swallowed the poison, try to make it vomit. Salt and mustard in water will usually work quickly, or a small piece of washing soda (sodium carbonate0 pushed down the throat.
Drowning
It is a popular misconception that all dogs can swim, but this is not always the case. You must attempt to empty the dog’s lungs of water as soon as possible. You must attempt to empty the dog’s lungs of water as soon as possible. Place the dog’s head lower than its body, open its mouth and begin to pump the chest by pressing down on the ribs and releasing the pressure immediately. Repeat at five-second intervals.
Choking
Sometimes a piece of stick, bone or small rubber ball may get stuck in a dog’s throat. Your dog may be unable to breath as a result and swift action is necessary.
Open the dog’s mouth carefully and see if you can see the object. Pumping the chest, as in the case of drowning (see above) may dislodge the foreign body, get your dog to the vet as soon as possible where the object can be removed under anaesthetic.
Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.
 Brought to you by: World Wide Information Outlet - http://certificate.net/wwio/, your source of FREEWare Content online.
Do you have any problems with your pet? Then why not send your problem to DAVID THE DOGMAN.
David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388.
His web site is located at: http://www.thedogman.net.
David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.
David The Dogman is available for private consultations in your home, for further details telephone; Tel; (95) 2883388
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